Clay's 3.4L 6spd 76mm Ultimate Street Supra

Clay's 3.4L 6spd 76mm Ultimate Street Supra - Build Recipe

Clay is one of the lesser seen faces in the Real Street line up but you might recognize him from the Excuse Maker video, or the Designated Buyer video. When he set out to build a Supra, he wanted something that would be fast but also comfortable enough to drive in daily commutes as well. The goal was 1200whp on E85 in a package he could drive to work.

  • Goal: Daily Streetable 1200whp
  • Fuel: E85

Below you will find the parts list used to build his car separated into categories with explanations for each.

1. Engine Block #1

Overview

Since this car was going to see daily driving street duty, it was important that it was fun to drive around town as well as wide open throttle. For this reason we decided to go with a high compression 3.4L stroker with a VVTi head. We wanted the responsiveness of the additional displacement and the variable cam timing of the VVTi to increase mid range power for part throttle torque.

  • Displacement: 3.4L
  • Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
  • Bore Diameter: 86.5mm (0.020" Over)
  • Rod Length: 5.590" (Std)
  • Rod: Steel I-Beam
  • Stroke: 94mm 
  • Billet Main Caps

We went with an RS1600 3.4L Real Street Spec CP Piston. The RS1600 forging is a bit lighter than the RS2000 forging and for this build we decided that we weren't going to try to make enough power to require the added material of the RS2000 forging. The compression ratio choice was 10.0:1 because the engine will be on E85 most of the time, and the added compression ratio and larger displacement could help the engine respond faster after shifts, spool up faster, and make more power. We used an upgraded DLC coated tool steel wrist pin with a .250" wall thickness to ensure that the wrist pin would not be a weak link in the system, and the DLC coating helps prevent galling in high abuse situations. At 1200whp a heavy duty H-Beam or a Turbo Tuff I-Beam would have been a reasonable choice. Since we may go for more power later, we chose to go with the Turbo Tuffs for this build as we have had good luck with them in previous high horsepower builds and we know they'll work. We used Clevite Race bearings in this engine. To get the bearing clearance right, we actually had to use a combination of half H (std) and half HX (extra clearance) bearings. Each bearing is a pair of halves. We used standard size bearing halves on one side, and extra clearance bearing halves on the other side of the journal. So each journal got half H and half HX. The crank is a 94mm Brian Crower stroker crank, and we made the decision to replace the stock main caps with our billet main caps and CA625+ main studs for added insurance. 

See Individual Parts()

2. Engine Head

Overview

The head is a simple non-ported stock GTE head with Ferrea valves, Brian Crower springs & retainers, and Brian Crower Stage 3+ 276/276 camshafts. We used a stock timing belt with PHR adjustable cam gears with locking inserts. Eventually this car will get a VVTi head and we will update this part of the recipe at that time.

See Individual Parts()

3. Oil

Overview

We broke this engine in using HPL Break in Oil and then switched to HPL's Race Oil formula designed for prolonged use with Ethanol and Methanol.

See Individual Parts()

4. Drivetrain

Overview

This car started its life as a factory automatic turbo car and it was going to need to be swapped to 6spd to fit Clay's needs. Ever since Toyota discontinued the production of the V160 and V161 manual transmissions, they (and their parts) have been harder and harder to find (and more and more expensive when you do). For a build of this power level, it is reasonable to think that after some time of abuse the transmission may need to be serviced at some point. It is for that reason we decided to swap to a Tremec TR6060 (T-56 Magnum) transmission kit from Grannas Racing. Because the gear ratios are longer than the V160, we decided to stick with the shorter-ratio rear end that comes in the automatic supras to offset the gearing change that came with the Tremec.

Clutch selection in a 1000+whp Supra can be tricky. The two most important requirements you want from a clutch at that level is for it to not slip, and for it to allow the transmission to shift quickly at higher rpm. Your realistic selection really becomes limited to twin and triple disk clutches at this point. While there are multiple clutches on the market that can transfer the power from the engine ot the driveshaft, not all of them drive the same. In a track car where you aren't worried about drivability, you can really take your pick of any of the choices. But for a car that you will be seeing daily street driving, you want a clutch that isn't going to make you look silly driving through the parking lot. The clutch we think drives the best is the RPS Triple Carbon (the twin carbon is very nice too). 

See Individual Parts()

5. Intake & Fuel System

Overview

When it came time to draw up the fuel system for this build we had to decide if the car was ever going to get turned up higher than the 1200whp goal in the future. The reason being, pushing a 2JZ past that point on ethanol will get you into the territory of maxing out 6 2000cc injectors and make you wish you had a second fuel rail to add another set. We made the decision to go with a twin fuel rail intake manfiold from Plazmaman so that we could have enough fuel system to grow in the future. We filled the 2 rails with a set of Injector Dynamics ID1050x's and a set of ID2600's. This gives the added benefit of being able to daily drive on the smaller ID1050's and only activating the ID2600's when the ID1050X's get overrun at WOT. (Cars drive around town nicer on smaller injectors than they do on bigger injectors.) The Plazmaman intake manifold we chose comes with a GM throttle body flange so we can run a GM Drive By Wire electronic throttle body for ECU driven throttle control. 

As for fuel pumps, we went with triple Walbro 450 in tank pumps in a PHR billet fuel pump hanger and a Weldon 2040 fuel pressure regulator.

Since this car often sees max effort passes, the fuel we run it on is One Ethanol 117R race blend ethanol to keep thing safe.

See Individual Parts()

6. Forced Induction

Overview

The turbo on this car is a Gen 2 ball bearing Precision 7675 in GT42 Sportsman frame with a T4 divided turbine housing. It has a 76mm compressor wheel inducer, and a 75mm turbine wheel exducer. This is a tried and true performer that we have used on street builds for years. Boost is controlled by a pair of Tial MVR wastegates. The blow off valve is a Tial 50mm. We are using a 6" ETS intercooler and a PHR header.

Boost is controlled by two Tial MVR 44mm wastegates via Motec M130 boost control.

See Individual Parts()

7. Engine Management System

Overview

The engine management system chosen for this build is a Motec M130. We have had a lot of luck in our race program with the Motec platform and have since converted our street program over to Motec as well. We will be using it to control variable cam timing, dbw throttle, boost control, and nitrous.

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8. Wheels & Tires

Overview

Because this car will be driven on the street (often in Florida rain) we decided to start with a 295/55/15 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S because of it's compromise between a drag radial and a treaded street tire. The front tire is a 245/40/18 Mickey Thompson Street Comp.

The wheels are Weld Racing S77's with a 15x10 beadloc rear, and an 18x9 front.

See Individual Parts()

9. Cooling System

Overview

We decided to get rid of the factory belt driven fan for a set of electric fans on a Koyo radiator.

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